Wood Tie Replacement

We are still working on replacing wood ties but we are making good headway on this project. all thats left to be replaced on the main line is two panels just before the return switch on the whipper table, two panels on the return lead for the whipper table, one and a half panels just past the in lead track to the whipper table, and theres maybe 20 tie just before the baseball crossing. There maybe a few more on the Crenshaw line but there not a big deal. The old Crenshaw passsing siding has a few panles and theres a few in the yard as well. There are also wood switch ties that need to be replaced: the two at the whipper and two are three in the yard. We have lone ties to do that but it just takes a good amount of time to do it as they have to be done on the ground one at a time so the switch doesn't get out of line.     

Thats not the screw pattern we have been using latly in the photo, I think I built this track panel before I talked to Bill and some guys back east in Ma. about the screw patten to use, and how its better in the long run. This may explain way we have some track movement. I'll see if I can take a photo this weekend. Do your home work and get lots of info on setting your track down or you will be working on your track all the time.    

Edited by Steve C - Feb 16 2012 at 8:37pm

wow those ties look really good... and the maint will be minimal hopefully...  thanks for posting..  keep us informed if u have issues or other comments on these... i like these ties very much..

Edited by wingtip - Feb 15 2012 at 6:26pm

    There is a pattern to how you put the screws that seems to help with letting the track bend a little easier when ajusting the track. Our freind, Bill at RMI showed us his track and how it works. There are four predrilled holes in the plates, two on each side of the rail. You only use one of the holes on each side with the installed screws maching on the left and right rails and alternating from side to side of the rail  tie to tie to form a w pattern on the ties, a photo of this will help you. The epstores ties are the way to go they cost the least and are very easy to use and have shipped. The next order of ties for S.C.L.S. will be for the epstores ties.     We haven't used their rail, but I would think it as good as their ties. We use the rail joiners from train mountian, as they let the rail move alot better than the screws and plate type of joints. We have been putting spray lube on the joints latey to try to get the rail to not kink in the sun. There have been reports from other clubs that theese joiners will stick if installed dry.     We do use plate  joints for switchs and we use plastic 2x4s laid on their side under most of the joints to try to keep them from droping and getting low joints. We use a combination of 2x2's and 2x4's when building the switchs. I build lighter switches for yards out of 2x2's to try to save some cost, as the 2x4's are pricey. The tie spacing is 1 1/2 to 2 times the with of the tie but you can go more, but I would think 4" would be the most I would go on the spacing.Tom     

Edited by Steve C - Feb 15 2012 at 7:03pm

We use 1 1/4" modified truss head screws to attach the track to the ties. I get them from a local bommercial building supply costs about $65 per box of 5000 if I remember right. I will take a pic next time I am down at the club. We also build our track on a jig and ley it in sections.